Dear Time-Traveling Troubadours,
Strolling through Nagoya, might you view it as just another modern cityscape? Pause for a moment and look deeper. Beneath its modern exterior lies a rich tapestry of history waiting to be discovered. Were you aware that back in 1612, Nagoya was entirely uprooted and relocated from Kiyosu, the area’s jewel of prosperity at that time? Quite the revelation, isn’t it? The very ground beneath your feet whispers the grand narrative of an entire city on the move.
Situated in a vulnerable lowland, Kiyosu was frequently menaced by floods and earthquakes, hardly the place for a flourishing capital. Visionary Tokugawa Ieyasu, Japan’s great unifier, dreamt up a city resilient to disasters and strategically positioned for enduring prosperity. Thanks to his foresight, 113 temples and shrines, along with 2,300 houses, were transplanted to what is now the safer environs of Nagoya.
And it wasn’t just the temples and houses that embarked on this journey; a castle made the trip too. The remains of Kiyosu Castle’s keep are still with us, a testament to history you’d surely not want to overlook.
Today’s journey unveils a serene sanctuary at Nagoya Castle’s northwest corner—a quiet forest transformed into a bird’s paradise, where samurai-era structures shimmer, undisturbed by the passage of many, cradling the tranquility of nature.
As the setting sun casts its glow, a whitewashed turret stands firm, its intimidating aura as strong as ever, designed to overawe any foe. Known today as the “Inui-Sumi-Yagura,” this former keep of Kiyosu Castle proudly holds its ground through the ages. “Inui” signifies the northwest direction, “Sumi” the corner, and “Yagura” the turret.
This three-story turret, a rarity compared to the usual two-story constructs, indeed recalls the grandeur of a principal keep. Gazing upon it, one is filled with a rush of exhilaration, imagining the time when Oda Nobunaga, the “Demon King of the Warring States,” had his fortress here. This excitement, this connection to history, it never wanes, no matter the number of visits. To miss out on this hidden marvel during a visit to Nagoya Castle would truly be a pity.
Now, cast your eyes upon the photo above! It beautifully captures the confluence of past and present, with an airplane slicing through the clouds beyond the historic turret’s roof, invoking a timeless journey. Beneath the clear blue expanse of Nagoya’s sky, the interlacing of history with the present paves a path to the future.
From this vantage point beside the turret, as you gaze northwestward, you’re actually beholding the origin of Nagoya—Kiyosu itself. Seated on this bench, sharing the view with the turret, offers a moment of profound connection with Nagoya’s roots.
Here, at Nagoya Castle, sitting beside the “Inui-Sumi-Yagura,” you and the turret alike gaze towards Kiyosu, Nagoya’s origin. In this shared view, you can deeply immerse in historical contemplation, becoming an integral part of its unfolding story and embarking on your own discoveries.
After wandering through the historical maze, what could be a more fitting celebration than a toast? Right by the main gate, at a shop nestled close to Nagoya Castle, awaits “HOPPING SHACHI,” a craft beer inspired by the castle itself, brought to you by “Y Market Brewing,” located just a stone’s throw away.
So, let’s raise our glasses! The aroma of citrus and blossoms brings forth the essence of Nagoya’s spring, enveloping us in a refined taste beloved by aficionados of history and culture. Even though it’s only March, the warmth reminiscent of early summer beckons us to savor another pint (laughs).
Yet, today’s sojourn is not solely about the beer. It’s been infused with the essence of Nagoya Castle’s saga, each sip a journey through the city and castle’s rich history and culture, capturing their evolution in a heartbeat.
Nagoya perpetually brims with new discoveries, awaiting your arrival. Your SAMURAI STROLLS are here, eager for you to embark. We’re excited to welcome you to Nagoya!
Koki@SamuraiWanderer
